How do you get a really popular festival? A festival that celebrates food and leaves visitors with a warm and genuine feeling. This is something that must have been up for discussion many times in Grebbestad, where the Nordic Oyster Opening Championships will soon be held. This year, the aim is clear! The competition will be a true celebration. Not a concept that feels forced or artificial. Instead, a festival that everyone can enjoy right in the middle of the picturesque fishing village of Grebbestad. More genuine than ever, and with focus on the best oysters in the world. I’m talking about the tastiest oysters you can imagine – freshly caught in Grebbestad. Just imagine!
“Swedish oysters are like the U.S. women’s gymnastic team – a rare mix of power and elegance that combine to make them the world’s best.”
Lauren DeSantis from Capital Cooking, a food and travel TV show and blog, has had the pleasure of exploring the West Swedish food scene recently. She’s been out in Bohuslän’s stunning archipelago on crayfish- and oyster safaris, stayed at Villa Sjötorp Hotel, probably Sweden’s most charming fin-de-siecle villa and indulged in West Sweden’s culinary delights. Read about her adventures in the quaint seaside resorts Ljungskile, Grebbestad and Fjällbacka:
Jessica Mueller from Intermezzo Magazine, toured the seas of West Sweden on a lobster safari excursion. Read the story of her incredible adventure here as told in her own words:
“Thursday didn’t seem like a good day for a “lobster safari.” Sheets of rain made for bad driving from my guesthouse in Ljungskile to the fishing village of Grönemad, and a boat ride seemed impossible. But, as the morning wore on, the rain eased up, the clouds parted, and the “yellow house by the sea” I’d been told to look for popped obvious and bright through the mist. There were no signs and no parking lot—just a friendly-looking guy in a wool cap, coming up the weed-lined walkway to meet me. In soft-spoken, perfect-but-cautious English, he introduced himself as Per Karlsson.
I followed Per into the tidy fishing cottage. But the prettiest part was just outside the sliding glass door. Grönemad is located on the Bohuslän coast, in the province of the same name, just north of Gothenburg. The waters are dotted with about 8,000 islands—some inhabited, others little more than hunks of rock.
Also outside, tied up to the dock, was the lobstering boat—all twenty-eight feet of it. Before boarding, Per instructed me to put on a gigantic, waterproof, buoyant bodysuit. It was black and orange and very ugly, but very comforting. I couldn’t have drowned if I tried.
I climbed onto the boat, named Tuffa and built in 1952, and we set off. Per’s brother Lars is at the rear, steering. The brothers own the boat and the house, and operate the whole coastal experience—collectively, the business is called Everts Sjöbod (“Evert’s boathouse”).
At first, the water was pretty smooth. But after we rounded a big island the conditions became, by my standards, rocky. Between reassurances that the boat would definitely not capsize, Per told me about this gorgeous slice of coastline. Bohuslän is a big vacation spot for Swedes, and in the summer these waters are chock full of recreational watercraft.
But we were after the lobster. Beginning the first Monday after the twentieth of September and running until April 30, Swedish waters are open to the lobster harvest. The rest of the year, Per and Lars take visitors out for mackerel fishing, crab harvesting or just swimming and island-hopping.
After about twenty minutes, we came to our first lobster trap (there are twenty-eight in all), identified by a bobbing red buoy. Hand over hand, Per hauled it up, and success! Inside the trap was a black lobster, speckled with red around its tail and claws. Per took it out and let it (actually, her) walk around on the seat cushions and snap at his gloves while I took scores of pictures. But before he could officially harvest this lobster, Per needed to measure her. The requirement is eight centimeters from about the lobster’s roving, bulbous eye down to the end of its head, and Per had a special ruler for making the calculation. Our lobster passed the size test.
At our next stop, Per told me I would be hauling up the trapho. About two seconds into this endeavor I handed back the rope and informed him that the trap was caught on the bottom, and what would we do to untangle it? He smiled, shook his head no, and handed me the rope. I tried again, and it was like playing tug-of-war with an elephant. Per insisted that was just the strength of the mighty ocean and that eventually the crate would come up. It did, but not before my arms were like jelly.
But we got another lobster! Per and Lars talked to each other in rapid Swedish—apparently, it’s pretty uncommon to get two in a row.
We checked a few more traps but found nothing but crabs, all of which we tossed back. By law, we could have taken them, but there was just no need. Lars and Per are in the tourism industry, and they don’t actually sell anything they catch.
Instead, they cook it for guests like me. Back at the cottage they boiled our lobster (the female) and split it in half to reveal bright white flesh. There was lemon and butter but mostly I ate it plain, as the meat was too sweet and pure to mess with. There was also a pasty, greenish-beige “something” up in the abdominal area that Per told me was the “best part,” though I was skeptical. It turned out to be the tomalley, part of the lobster’s digestive system. Our lobster also had abundant bright orange roe, another delicacy. I tried a little of both, but was happiest by far with my white meat.
Food definitely tastes better when you grow it or catch it yourself. And though I’m thankful I personally wasn’t the one who had to drop our lady lobster into the pot of boiling water, this ocean-to-table experience is undoubtedly the best way to taste the west of Sweden.”
Recipe: Lobster Pot au Feu with Hake, Serves 4
For cooking lobster:
1 live lobster, about 10 to 14 ounces
4 cups water
1 1/2 tablespoons salt
1 tablespoon dill seeds
For lobster sauce:
2 tablespoons butter
2 onions, minced
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 tablespoon tomato purée
1 teaspoon dill seeds
Roasted lobster shell
3/4 cup white wine
Water, as needed
1 cup cream, or to taste
Splash brandy (optional)
Freshly ground black pepper
For finished soup:
1 1/3 pounds hake, cod, or other firm white fish
Meat from 1 lobster
2 cups lobster sauce
Freshly ground black pepper
Fresh dill, finely chopped (to taste)
1. Prepare lobster. Combine water, salt and dill and bring to a boil. Put live lobster head first into boiling water, cover and boil 20 minutes. Remove lobster and cool.
2. When cool enough to handle, remove all flesh and set aside. Reserve shell.
3. Preheat oven to 450°F.
4. Place shell on a baking sheet and place in oven. Roast about 15 minutes, tossing and stirring a few times. Remove and cool.
5. Prepare lobster sauce. In a large skillet or Dutch oven, melt butter over medium-high heat. Add onion and garlic and cook, stirring, until softened but not browned, about 7 minutes.
6. Add tomato purée and dill seeds and stir to combine. Add lobster shell and wine and cook for 2 minutes, then add enough water to cover shell. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, and simmer 20 minutes.
7. Remove and discard shells. Simmer until stock is reduced by half. Strain through a fine-mesh strainer and into a clean pot. Add cream and brandy (if using). Briefly return to a boil, then remove from heat and season to taste with salt and pepper. Set aside.
8. Prepare soup. Cut hake into 1-inch cubes. Chop or shred lobster into slightly smaller chunks.
9. Peel and finely mince or julienne carrots, parsnips and kohlrabi.
10. Preheat oven to 350°.
11. Place fish, lobster and vegetables in an ovenproof dish and pour sauce over. Bake about 10 minutes, until fish is cooked through. Season to taste, garnish with dill and serve.
As seen in Intermezzo Magazine, story by Jessica Mueller.
They were not only blown away by the contrasting, eye-poppingly picturesque settings, but thoroughly enjoyed immersing themselves in the Swedish way of life – a lifestyle that is all about slowing down, taking in the great outdoors and eating healthily, with bundles of exquisite treats along the way. Stephanie shares her travel diary…
Thursday, 19 May – Gothenburg
I’d been told that West Sweden was accessible from London, but I didn’t realise quite how simple it was to get there until I had experienced the speedy two-hour flight from London Gatwick to Gothenburg Landvetter airport for myself. By the time we’d taken off, it felt like it was time to descend. And, as we drew closer to land, Karen and I caught our first glimpse of scattered islands along the west coast’s archipelago and of the sunlight bouncing off the dark blue lakes. Wow. It was a breathtakingly beautiful welcome from the sky.
Sweden’s second city, Gothenburg, is incredibly easy to reach from the airport, too – a quick and typically-efficient 30-minute bus ride. Upon arrival, we were treated to our first introduction to this relaxed, very pretty city, with an interesting walking tour led by Gothenburg Tourist Board’s Lena Larsson. We wandered along cobbled streets, stopping to sample ‘Göteborg’ dark chocolate (the locals’ favourite – it’s lightly seasoned with sea salt and, rather surprisingly, tastes divine!) as well as trying to resist the temptation to step into every super-cool, independent fashion or design shop we passed along the way.
Fika – coffee and a cinnamon bun – is one of the Swedes’ favourite pastimes, made even easier to enjoy by the abundance of outdoor cafés dotted across the city. And, as someone who appreciates quality coffee, I had to fight the urge to stop at all of the cafés, too. I could have spent the entire day touring the city’s fika hotspots. A special mention to da Matteo – a local secret, tucked away down a hidden side street and kindly recommended by Lena. I insisted (demanded) that Karen and I returned later on to sample the rich brew – only for research, of course. It didn’t disappoint.
As a major fishing port, Gothenburg knows all about fresh seafood, with our tour taking us to the famous indoor fish market, Feskekorka, meaning ‘Fish church’ because of its setting in an old, elegantly-restored church.
We then advanced up hill to Skansen Kronan fort to take in a wonderful vista of the city, followed by a potter along the ridiculously quaint streets of the Haga district, especially popular with tourists thanks to its gorgeous wooden architecture and countless more places to eat and drink outside. I admire the Swedes’ resilience against cooler early and late season temperatures and their determination to breathe in fresh air whatever the season, with blankets or outdoor heaters available at most cafés to ensure all guests are as cosy as can be!
That evening we indulged in a fantastic meal at The Taste of West Sweden accredited Restaurant Familjen with its glamorous interior, soft lighting and mouth-watering food – the asparagus was especially tasty. We then retired to what could possibly be the world’s most comfortable beds, found at the friendly, family-owned Hotel Flora, with its retro Swedish design, suites fit for a rock star and the sweetest-smelling toiletries. We both also really loved the cool handle-less cups used to serve our breakfast coffee and tea…and spent our last few hours in Gothenburg scouring the shops for similar crockery to take home (sadly, to no avail).
Friday 20 May – Gothenburg
We began another day’s exploration of the city, with a fascinating tour of the iconic Göta Canal Steamship Company’s cruise boats, docked at the harbour (Packhuskajen) as they undergo final preparations for the summer sailing season. These boats are a proud piece of Swedish history, taking lucky guests along the famous Göta Canal, including a coast-to-coast route that winds all the way to Stockholm. The collection includes the M/S Juno which was built in 1874 and is the world’s oldest registered ship with overnight accommodation.
Peeking at the traditional cabin-style accommodation and wandering along the decks, it was easy to imagine journeying at a leisurely pace along the incredibly scenic canal route, a sure-fire way to shake off the stresses of everyday life.
We enjoyed lunch at the Michelin-starred Fond restaurant – oozing sophistication but without a trace of the snobbery so often associated with eateries of this standard. It’s one of five foodie hotbeds in the city to enjoy Michelin status and what’s unique is that they offer special yet unstuffy dining, with customers not required to reserve a table months in advance. Compared to London, where waiting lists can become all-consuming, this makes a refreshing and welcome change.
After a stroll along Gothenburg’s main street, we soaked up more of the city on board the Paddan boat sightseeing tour, gliding along the canal and into the harbour, giggling as all passengers were asked to duck down in order to get under a few of the bridges without losing their heads.
That afternoon we took a dip in a sublime outdoor pool, spectacularly set on the roof of our next home for the night – the boutique Avalon Hotel. Part of the pool hangs over the front of the building, with a glass floor giving swimmers a surreal view of the sheer drop below. Stay at the opposite end of the pool if you’re afraid of heights! Avalon showcases eclectic Swedish designs, sculptures and artwork throughout, and it often took us a while to reach our bedrooms because we kept stopping to admire exhibits along the hallways.
Evening dinner was a real treat at the swanky seafood buffet, Fiskekrogen. Set in a lavish hall with luxurious deep green interiors and scattered candles, we helped ourselves to a vast array of seafood and were taken aback by the efficient and friendly staff, serving up the best wine to complement the food, as well as additional dishes (including amazing chocolate truffles for dessert).
We ended the night in style – sipping wine in the Avalon’s chic outdoor bar, wrapped in those thick blankets…
Saturday 21 May – Bohuslän west coast (Marstrand)
Today it was time for us to leave Gothenburg to discover Sweden’s west coast – driving, what else, but a Volvo. It was the time first time I’ve ever driven on the right-hand side of the road. It didn’t go as smoothly as I’d hoped. It took a while to accept that the gears weren’t to my left and that the ‘E6 Malmo’ (south) wasn’t the ‘E6 Oslo’ (north). After a few accidental returns to Gothenburg’s centre (we just couldn’t keep away, obviously), we were finally heading in the right direction.
Our first stop was another Taste of West Sweden lunch at Villa Sjotorp in Ljungskile – once a grand family home that has been restored, decades later, by a descendant of the original owners who re-purchased the property. It’s now a splendid guest house, with the pretty décor bursting with Swedish tradition.
Lunches don’t get more perfect that this. Actually, life doesn’t get more perfect than this. With the sun blazing down on us, we ate yet more flavoursome, locally-sourced food whilst admiring a jaw-dropping view through lush, dark green trees to the sea beyond, islands scattered in the distance, as a lone boat bobbed its way in and out of sight. “In Sweden, we say ‘life is like a prawn sandwich’ when we enjoy moments like this because it’s so delicious, so wonderful,” Lotta said, as we marvelled at the scene.
Marstrand island was our final stop for the day – Sweden’s version of Hollywood as the playground of royalty and celebrities, boasting a rich, intriguing history. We were treated to another impressive vista after making our way up to Carlsten’s Fortress, looking down upon the island’s colourful collection of wooden holiday homes and sailing boats of all shapes and sizes, alongside rugged rocks and the navy-blue ocean.
We stayed at the sleek, new Havshotellet Marstrand, just opposite the island, which has a superb spa (designed to reflect its natural coastal setting, with treatments to match) and a restaurant that lets guests watch the sunset over Carlsten’s Fortress. For those looking to delve further into the history of Marstrand island, the Grand Hotel Marstrand is another great place to stay – the former residence of King Oscar II, who apparently fathered 350 children!
Sunday 22 May – Bohuslan west coast (Tjörn, Grebbestad and Lysekil)
We kicked off the day with a visit to the Nordic Watercolour Museum in Skärhamn on Tjörn island, boasting another incredible coastal setting. This centre for contemporary art showcases a range of unique and sometimes challenging paintings, and we were interested to see that the centre offers visitors of all ages the chance to partake in art lessons, with five incredibly cute guest studios available for hire on the waterfront.
I was almost lured into its reputable gourmet café (yes, it was the coffee aromas again), but we were due to experience the famous Salt & Sill floating hotel and restaurant in Klädesholmen. What a delight. Built on floating pontoons, we peeked into some of the hotel rooms, the decor characterised by modern Scandinavian simplicity. I especially liked the suite, with its own private hot tub, offering yet another majestic view across the west coast. And I can’t forget to mention our excitement at seeing the world’s fastest moving sauna, SS Silla!
Before we left the Salt & Sill (and we really didn’t want to; that speedy sauna looked too much fun!), we tucked into another scrumptious meal – a smörgåsbord buffet that kept us going back for more, especially the homemade berry pie and vanilla sauce. Amazing.
The afternoon was spent visiting the extraordinary Sculpture at Pilane 2011, a unique site that mixes thousand year-old ancient remains in the countryside with avant-garde sculptures. We were lucky enough to meet the renowned sculptor of one of this year’s exhibits, Keith Edmier, chatting to him about what inspires his work as we wandered past sheep grazing freely and trekked to the highest view point to be transfixed by yet another awe-inspiring view. There are some high-profile exhibits being showcased this year, including work by the British artist, Tony Cragg, currently exhibiting at the Louvre Museum in Paris and the Irish artist, Eva Rothschild, creator of the cutting-edge ‘Empire’ sculpture in Central Park, New York.
We then continued our unique day to meet the oyster safari guru, Per Karlsson, in the fishing village of Grebbestad (from where 90% of Sweden’s oysters originate). Per offers eco-friendly seafood safaris and tasting sessions from his restored 19th-century boathouse. Within minutes of us arriving he hauled some fresh oysters from the natural oyster bed – located directly under the boathouse – and offered them to us to sample with Grebbestad’s very own seaweed crackers, ‘Grebbestad Tångknäcke’. I eyed the hot tub overlooking the shore right next to the boathouse, a sublime place to toast your new oyster knowledge after a safari.
That evening we stayed at the lovingly cared-for and characterful Strandflickorna Havshotellet in Lysekil, built in 1904 as a holiday retreat for tired, rich nurses from Stockholm and then refurbished into a guesthouse for tired, not-so-rich travel PR women from London! We were greeted with lobster soup and warm bread (I must stop talking about food but it’s rather difficult when it’s that good!). What’s more, there’s also some waterside accommodation – and, when I say waterside, I mean right by the ocean’s edge with ladders leading into the sea – it gives private access into your own enormous swimming pool.
Monday 23 May – Bohuslan west coast (Fjällbacka) and Dalsland
Well-known as the setting for Camilla Lackberg’s crime novels, I’d been told Fjällbacka was a dream fishing village but I was taken aback by just how pretty it is. Boats sway gently in the harbour against lines of red wooden houses, with wind chimes singing in the sea breeze. It is perfection.
We then moved on to visit the Vitlycke museum, inspecting the fascinating rock carvings created during the Bronze Age period and the specially-recreated Viking farm, all set in yet another naturally-beautiful green landscape. The museum also offers archaeology classes for children so it’s a great place for families – and entrance is free.
In the afternoon we ventured to the wilderness of Dalsland, with its wild forests and shimmering lakes, for some energetic adventure at Dalsland Activities centre. Visitors can try all sorts of exciting activities here, including kayaking, canoeing and tipi adventures. And it was then that the highlight of my trip was decided as we went horse riding around the serene landscape, feeling so close to nature. At one point we climbed a steep hill to be surprised with a striking and unforgettable view across Lake Ivag. To see this on horseback was an experience that I will remember forever.
That evening, we rested at the magnificent 100-acre Stenebynäs estate, owned by the lovely Maria and Staffan and featuring tranquil accommodation right by the shores of Lake Ivag. But only before we were spoilt further with a four-course meal at another Taste of West Sweden restaurant – Falkholts Dalslandskrog (translated as ‘the best in Dalsland’ and it really is). If you’re lucky enough to visit, make sure you check out the ceiling of wine corks in the bar area, too. Our West Sweden visit then culminated with another quintessentially Swedish experience – as dusk settled, Staffan took us on an exhilarating elk safari by open-top jeep, where we may not have seen an elk but were met by inquisitive ponies, saw a Viking graveyard and came across an unexpected abundance of sweetly-scented lily of the valley.
Life in West Sweden really is a prawn sandwich.
For more photos from this trip, take a look at this Flickr stream.